apple- America-and-a-squeezed-middle-class

This is mostly a food blog , but sometimes a tech article I read on-line sparks my attention.

and now the news from the current political elections is un-escapable for the most part

 How U.S. Lost Out on IPhone Work

NY Times, Business Day ,The Economy

By CHARLES DUHIGG and KEITH BRADSHER

Published: January 21, 2012

my comments:

Asia is the leader of large scale manufacturing. This

article focuses on the electronics industry.

notes:

“Companies once felt an obligation to support American

workers, even when it wasn’t the best financial choice,”

said Betsey Stevenson, the chief economist at the Labor

Department until last September. “That’s disappeared.

Profits and efficiency have trumped generosity.”

(a)this was creating jobs for the sake of creating jobs.

 

    "…a current Apple executive said. “We don’t have an

obligation to solve America’s problems. Our only

obligation is making the best product possible.”
(b)this is  focusing on making a product, not influenced by political distractions

…

    "For technology companies, the cost of labor is

minimal compared with the expense of buying parts and

managing supply chains that bring together components

and services from hundreds of companies. For Mr. Cook,

the focus on Asia “came down to two things,” said one

former high-ranking Apple executive. Factories in Asia

“can scale up and down faster” and “Asian supply chains

have surpassed what’s in the U.S.” The result is that

“we can’t compete at this point,” the executive said. "

    "Another critical advantage for Apple was that China

provided engineers at a scale the United States could

not match. Apple’s executives had estimated that about

8,700 industrial engineers were needed to oversee and

guide the 200,000 assembly-line workers eventually

involved in manufacturing iPhones. The company’s

analysts had forecast it would take as long as nine

months to find that many qualified engineers in the

United States. In China, it took 15 days. "
(c)Other countries are set up demographically and geographically to make efficient use of manufacturing

supply chains and labor for mass production in shorter time spans. They have the resources and control

mastered.

 

Other governments support and motivate a national pride towards production and manufacturing versus individual

financial gain (very debatable) and have the qualified work force ready.   Some governments are better at a

growing a service economy.

It seems that Asia is the only place to build fast moving (changing technology) products in great numbers at a price that makes

them affordable.

What does that leave us, the U.S. ? In the technical field; programming? software development?

So here is a follow up question , if you will: Multiple choice, no correct answer(s) at this time

What is the United States better suited at producing?
What ones will grow or shrink or remain the same?
(a) legal professionals
(b) Doctors
(c) political parties/ politicians
(d) health care systems
(e) financial/credit systems
(f) welfare systems
(g) an up to date infrastructure
(h) discourse
(i) non-profit organizations and exemptions(too many to list)
(j) Research and development
(k) Political Action Committees
(l) an affordable education system
(m) a chaotic tax code (AKA red tape)
(n) regulations
(o) benefit packages
(n) small businesses/manufacturing
(p) artistic expression
(q) agriculture
(r) defense/law enforcement

(s) computer programming/servicing/software development

add your own

I’m  poking fun at the USA, this is who we are. A diverse culture. Asia has it’s problems too, and no telling where they will be after 15-20 years.

No doubt though that hobbies should be encouraged as they were in past. They are the first step in education of the trades.

Have they been displaced by dismissing them as nonsense as they have no social redeeming value? Personally speaking, a home with out a work bench is not a home.

Toyota headlamps

Both headlamps were installed and fit the vehicle. The details follows for a 1993 Camry.

Plastic headlamps (and other vehicle lamps) are a problem as they age, they get cloudy, and have moisture problems and UV  exposure make them brittle and prone to cracking and breaking. There are many remedies available that claim to restore the the lenses but they can be expensive and the lens cleaning may not last. If you provide the labor, installing new replacements is the best way to go.

Here is some advice when dealing with an aged vehicle, there are a few things that you should consider: ( I did not have a repair manual available)

Before even staring the job, unpack and check the new replacement  headlamps to make sure they are the correct replacements and see how they  mount. Beforehand, check how the headlamps are attached to the vehicle, what type of hardware is used and what size  and type of wrenches/tools will be needed. The vehicle may have been worked on before and when replacing exterior hardware, such as headlamps, the fit may be difficult or mixed or improper mounting hardware may have been used. On an aged vehicle rust can be a problem, the day beforehand it is recommended that penetrant (WD40 or liquid wrench) be applied to the places where the headlamps are bolted in. Before replacement, insure that the headlamps are properly functioning ,electrical problems should be corrected before replacement. Get an idea of how they are aimed, there are various methods to check alignment. Check the connectors and wiring harness for damage, oxidation, fraying etc. The headlamps that I purchased included the bulbs, so it would be a simple matter of plugging in the electrical connections. Some mounting hardware (bolts, screws) may snap or the heads of screws strip or rust out. Have a drill with small bits available to drill them out. You can re-tap the holes if you have proper taps, either metric or SAE and have the correct replacement hardware, or nut and bolt the drilled out mounting location. Plug in the headlamp electrical connections first and test them, then finish bolting them in place. Alignment varies with the type of headlamp there are usually two axis  of adjustment. Other note, If the gas struts that hold the hood up are worn, prop up the hood, in this case I used the grille that had to be removed for the headlights to be replaced!

Old lamps

New Replacements

Now, my wife is satisfied with the results, she can see much better at night. Next will be replacement of the front side maker lamps (Toyota) and the headlights on the Topaz .

removing HEAT

Refrigerators don’t make things cold ! They remove heat. Heat transfer, energy transfer.
We take for granted the fridge until maybe the light bulb inside burns out or the ice cream doesn’t get as hard as it used to or the milk (or beer) doesn’t get cold enough.
This is a basic two door (side by side) fridge with out the bells and whistles , Ice maker, water dispensers etc.
Refrigeration depends on removing the heat from inside and venting it to the exterior of the fridge.
Most rely on proper air circulation both inside and outside to work effectively and efficiently .
Keeping the condenser coils, those located some where outside the box, clean promotes proper energy transfer.
Older fridges had the condenser coils on the back and simply gave off heat. Now they are usually at the bottom and air circulated over them by a fan.
It is recommended that these coils be cleaned often.

in this case remove the grill as the manufacturer recommends.

with a vacuum and a crevice tool, clean the coils

while your under there, remove and clean the drip pan.

When the fridge goes through the defrost cycle the melting ice has to go somewhere !

If you never clean it, it may cause odors, the water that collects in it normally evaporates, you don’t have to empty it periodically.

You can remove the back cover and clean the compressor, fan and coils of dust buildup that traps in heat if you desire. CAUTION ! some of these components may be hot and of course unplug the fridge before cleaning. Note any copper tubing that is touching another surface or rubs against another tube, over time this could wear due to vibration, cause noise, and or refrigerant loss. Isolate.

A look at the evaporator coils in the freezer, cover removed. It’s not necessary to clean these. This fridge relys on a fan to circulate air over the coils removing heat and ducting it from the freezer to the fridge side for cooling.

With simple periodic cleaning, you fridge will always keep your cool !

Replacing the Motor brushes Kitchen Aid K45

The 20 + year old Kitchen Aid mixer occasional sputtered and then would not start without manually rotating the flat beater usually indicating a bad armature or brushes. fortunately the motor brushes are easily serviced. Unplug the mixer, unscrew the brush caps (one on each side) and carefully withdraw the spring-loaded brushes. Carbon brushes are not expensive and were obtained online from Goodmans. Brushes are $5.98 a set (2), and a replacement for a worn flat beater was $12.99. One important point when replacing the brushes is to note that they are not rectangular but have a diagonal edge on one side. The end of the brush holder, internally, not seen, is slightly crimped on the edge to correspond with the diagonal side of the brush. Simply speaking, note the positioning of the old brushes when they are removed and align the new brushes the same way. The other problem encountered is that the brushes must be able to slide into the holders with little or no effort. The springs will press them into contact with the armature and they must be free to slide into place. One brush on mine stuck and had to be sanded slightly to insure contact with the armature. I also have had the mixer apart to clean the armature contacts, and years ago to grease and replace a stripped gear from most likely overloading attachments, most parts are still available and diagrams downloadable/ printable for assembly/disassembly. So this crucial piece of equipment mixes on.

the old and new motor brushes

91 ranger- retired

I knew i had to get the 91 Topaz that I bought from my daughter on the road as the ol Ranger would need major rust-oration and probably wouldn’t pass state inspection.The winter is tough on vehicles that had any rust due to the salt and chems that are used on the roads. I had kept up with the chassis as best I could but the brake lines started to go and laying on your back in the driveway messing with frozen rusted fittings is bad news. The rear cab mounts are just about history also. The main brake line going from front to rear blew out at the rear. I had patched it up till I could replace it during a break in the weather, still the anti-lock was not functional and with frozen fittings no easy way to bleed out the brakes. 200,000 just passed and even the paint wore out more and more adding to a rat rod look. I don’t know what happened to the paint on the hood and roof it looks like someone took a blowtorch to it when I got it, major peeling and cracking The definite winner though is the drive train. The 2.3 L 4 cylinder still starts and runs every time, the only exception when the starter solenoid crapped out, very reliable with the dual ignition 2 plugs per cylinder and five speed tranny (4 speed with overdrive for you purist). Most likely will part it out for the 95 ranger. It’s easy to work on for the most part except for the rust and chassis and I don’t have the facilities to pull it apart down to the chassis, it would take me years (and much noise and $$$) working in the driveway. Several years ago the rust caused the front spring mount on the passenger side to pull away from the chassis, that had to go to the shop for replacement, a new one was welded in place, by the hour, welding is expensive but I got several more years out of it. Most of the other repairs/replacement I did, probably 99% of the parts were purchased on-line, tires , rims, cooling system, exhaust system, components etc. One of the advantages of the ranger is that there is a good supply of restoration parts still available even online bone yards that have rust free parts down south that I got a tranny cross member from. Purchase date was October 6th, 2003 ,$800.00 USD and odometer reading  noted was 148296. About 7300 per year average. (mostly back and forth to work).

by the way, I like to work on vehicles for the most part not 24/7, so if could get a (newer) vehicle with payments that would last 60k and be equal with the parts and labor I would put into it repairing it myself……..BORING !!!!! and definitely not classic……..and what would I learn , better finances ? and besides, does having a hobby mean that you have to turn a profit on it ?

91topaz

March 2012

Installed new headlights, passenger side outer rear wheel bearing replaced

rear brakes need to be installed

mileage now at : 150,0015

April 2011

Being a stubborn DIYer can have it’s advantages/disadvantages and shopping on the internet for convenience since the local warehouse club closed, where I usually would purchase tires, I had purchased two front tires delivered and as fate would have it right after DIY mounting them (I have yet to DIY balance them (badboy!) A pothole on post road took most of the air from one of them. Being a front wheel drive car I didn’t really notice any difference in handling.. so on I rode… later finding out that the new tire was woefully under inflated from the killer pothole. So I supposed I put the myself and others at risk riding around like this !!! My vehicle doesn’t have the latest safety enhancement of tire pressure monitoring! Nor do I want it. Some sidewall wear on the tire but so far so good …It re inflated and held air . The DIYer rides on… (yes you can purchase replacement insurance for tires bought online.(and yes I have old tires to bring to the recycling center or maybe look up ways to utilize them)) I will have to take a good look ,after the teeth smashing pot hole encounter, of the front end as if there was any alignment it is probably gone. (Is there an app to download for your mobile phone for pothole claim damage?)….

04/22/2011 $3.859 USD/gallon

04/03/2011 $3.639 USD/ gallon

04/09/2011 $3.699 USD/ gallon

The ranger sitting in the driveway will have to go !!!!! Tags expired , if I was on a farm it might be nice to have a rusty pickup around !

March 2011

The air tube bracket from under the car is buzzing again, the bolt securing it is off the bracket probably from the snow that was piled up and driven over.
The starter failed, friday AM, clicking solenoid, when checked the wiring and voltage was ok, pulled the starter and dissassembled, Intermittent and slow operation when bench tested, looks like oil from the leaking valve cover has dripped down onto and into the starter. The amature and brushes were covered in oil and dirt. Cleaned out the brushes and commutator. Tested ok, reinstalled. Will have to rebuild/replace soon. last check was Sept. with a wiring problem.

Passenger side front window no power or poor connection somewhere, doesn’t work was intermittent (from october)

topped off transmission fluid

heater controls need cleaning /service ,sometimes intermittent fan operation

passenger side tire slow leak, inside sidewall has dry rot, front tires to be replaced.

3/17/2001 regular unleaded @ $3.539 USD/ gallon

January 2011

The alternator belt broke, replaced. Most likely the bearing seized up and broke the belt. Ordered parts for rebuild only to find out that the alternator is a 75 amp Mitsubishi model (should have checked more closely) and a Topaz with automatic transmission and air conditioning should have a 95 amp unit, unable to rebuild it so a 95 amp model ordered. (Installed new alternator)

December 20101

12/26/2010,12.436gals, 258 miles, 20.81 mpg

12/09/2010, 12.023 gals,248 miles,20.627mpg , $3.05 USD/gal

November 2010

$2.889 USD/gallon, 9.944 Gallons, 243 miles 24.4 miles per gallon, $28.73 USD

OCTOBER 2010

Unleaded regular, @2.859/G, 11.624 Gal, 266 miles, 22.88 mpg, $33.23 USD

Passenger side power window intermittent power, most likely switch, and/or connections need cleaning.

Tires: the donut spare was found to have a screw through the tread. Since I never thought that space saver spare was a good idea and it’s only for temporary service under 50 mph, I purchased on-line a 14 inch steel rim (Discounttiredirect.com $43.00 and $3.00 for a tire valve ,free shipping.) I could have gone to a bone yard or got used rims on Ebay but theres no guarantee that they would be true (not bent or out of round) , for the money and convenience of delivery it’s a good deal on a new rim..Mounted a 14″ tire I had in the basement. Possibly will buy 2 new tires at a later date. Now I have a full size spare.

SEPTEMBER 2010

Valve cover leaks oil, one reference states that the late models have an integral gasket as part of the valve cover, meaning that if it’s damaged, you replace the entire valve cover. One good thing is that the valve cover is easily replaceable, there is not a lot of plumbing or components blocking it’s removal.

Recent gas up was 13.011 gallons at $2.559 USD/gal. I didn’t get the exact odometer reading but estimate mileage was 24-25 mpg. (about ~300 miles ).

tire valves
both rear tires that were previous mounted on the front of the car had leaking tire valves.
one I discovered leaking and changed, checked the other ones, they seemed alright.
The drivers side rear tire blew out and when a tire was mounted, the tire valve was leaking,
replaced the valve. It looks like fix-a flat sealant was used as there was some around the neck of the tire valve. check donut spare, it went flat when car was parked, re-inflated, may get a rim for a full size spare.

Coolant:
Drained coolant (no flush) and replaced about 1 gallon of anti freeze, you are supposed to remove the drain plug from the engine block to completely drain the coolant but it’s difficult to get to and no idea how easily it would be to remove it. while I was under the car checked for any major oil/tranny leaks, didn’t see any but didn’t have the engine running at the time.Getting to the petcock on the radiator to drain fluid is no easy task compared to working on the ranger. Plus you have to attach tubing to the petcock as there’s a bracket directly under the petcock. On the topaz, the air cleaner tube was in the way and if you have large hands it’s a tight squeeze. Run up to temp and top off check cooling fan.

A/C
the A/c compressor pulley has major play in it, the bearing are probably shot and that most likely the reason why it’s bypassed. If I ever have time and money to do it I’ll pull the compressor and repair /replace it. Low priority.

Starter circuit
Also pulled the starter out, by chance, the car didn’t start (solenoid clicking) after I changed the anti freeze, the starter and solenoid looked ok and bench tested ok, cleaned all electrical connections on starter and solenoid. Car still didn’t start now, but cranking, no spark, checked connection at coil, getting 12 v but noticed some slight oxidation at primary coil connection, cleaned and applied dielectic grease. vehicle started. Some times working on older vehicles you have to clean some of the electrical connections and grounds that could cause intermittents.

Misc
Also I reattached the air tube bracket from under the car. that was causing a buzzing sound at around 1200 RPM

Gas Milage
Current fill up was 10.433 gallons at 252 miles, more idle time when servicing vehicle, full throttle acceleration test to redline. stallout at idle after service not sure if it was due to computer refresh after having battery cable disconnected for starter service. Other wise, vehicle is running ok. Ignition ok in rain.

August 2010

topped off transmission fluid, sometimes 1-2 shift delayed, will have to check out transmission, leaking etc. and recheck fluid level

rotated tires,

repaired passenger side power window gear

mileage from last fill up, after emission repairs and tune up, 28mpg , 288 miles which is good but, driving for good mileage may result in an increase in vehicles that tailgate you, especially when accelerating from stoplights or on freeway entrance ramps. seems a bit high

next fill up was 25. 68 mpg, 277 miles.

repairs/ maintenance to be considered:

some small rust spots on the undercarriage and trunk floor, should repair b4 winter

rear brakes may need adjusting ?? right rear drags sometimes

should change coolant b4 winter (done)

possible starter solenoid/ wiring problems, troubleshoot, check wiring (done)

drivers side front door lock solenoid (actually a motor actuator, froze up) needs replacing, low priority

drivers side rear power window gear may need replacing, low priority

spare key works in ignition but won’t unlock doors

July 2010 repairs

Replaced :spark plugs, wires, rotor, distributer cap

Front Brake pads

CV joint boot outer left front axle, quick boot type

Left rear strut assembly

Power window motor gear, drivers side

Coolant temperature sender
(parts from Rock Auto)

Accu Auto Repairs (emission repairs)

Replaced O2 sensor $59.00 USD

Replaced EGR solenoid $62.00 USD

Labor Diagnostic $70.00 USD

RI State Inspection. $39.00 USD

VIN readout:

World Manufacturer Identifier – 1st, 2nd, 3rd Positions
VIN Code: 1ME
Assembly Country: UNITED STATES
Make: Mercury
Body Style: Sedan
Restraint System Type (Passenger Cars) or Brake Type and GVWR Class (Trucks and Vans) – 4th Position
VIN Code: P
Brake System: STANDARD
GVWR Class:
Line,Series Body Type – 5th, 6th, 7th Positions
VIN Code: M36
Vehicle Line: Topaz
Series: GS
Vehicle Type: Passenger Car
Engine Type – 8th Position
VIN Code: X
Engine: 2.3 L
Cylinders: 4
Fuel: Gasoline
Model Year – 10th Position
VIN Code: M
Model Year: 1991
Assembly Plant – 11th Position
VIN Code: K
Assembly Plant: KANSAS CITY, KANSAS
Production Sequence Number – 12th – 17th
VIN Code: deleted
Prod Sequence Number deleted
Additional Information
Wheel Axles Wheelbase 199.8

stats
4 door
Front wheel drive
4 cylinder, 3 speed automatic transmission
color: light blue, faded flat with primer spots (or faded clear coat) showing
one side looks like repaint, rust spot rear quarter
39000 on the clock (139000)
power side mirrors
power locks and windows
A/C, non functional, serpentine belt is for no a/c application, by passes A/C pulley.

I purchased this car from my daughter who wanted to sell it, knowing that I would need another vehicle some day when the ranger crapped out. It sat out in the driveway for a couple of years but I started it and ran it around the hood every couple of months. Some days I would come home and find a “cash for junk cars” flyer on it. I guess people don’t recognize a decent good car when they see it. (and technically they are trespassers.)

average 24 MPG

GM

Since there was so much news about GM this week, the stories about people and their GM automobiles, I’ll have to write about mine soon.