After the great flood waters had receded from the basement it was time to assess the damage it had done to the Maytag as it was being utilized as a way to pump water from the water vacs away as the sewer line is about 5 feet off the floor. Before the flood the maytag had some serious issues, but still ran. It sounded like a freight train gearing up when it went into spin and vibrate so violently during spin it would walk across the basement floor if it didn’t try to smash the tub through the side of the cabinet. Redistributing the load helped but it still wailed noisily during spin . Now after pumping out so many gallons of floodwaters it leaked horribly. Even though the basement was now dry, the water vac stood duty during every load. Mind you I still had the washer and dryer perched on 5 gallon buckets so they were above the water line during the flood. The washer was also on a ground fault circuit allowing it to operate during the removal of the floodwaters and the electric dryer was unplugged till the floor was completely dry. Having done some basic maintenance on the washer before, it was apparent that the main tub bearing was shot and the tub seals were history. Ordering parts and perusing various diagrams it was time to pull apart the machine. The Maytag is a design in simplicity for a top loader. Years ago i had worked as a maintenance tech for a real estate developer. I did a majority of the appliance repair limited to a few different brands of appliances that i become familiar with. The design of the Maytag though is easy to repair and has a minimum of parts, even the belt is designed so it never had to be tensioned, a two speed reversible motor and transmission is all thats used to go from agitate to sin and the pump works in one direction with enough clearance so it never clogs or wears but is limited on the height it can pump. there are no relays, solenoids, or linkages levers just the reversal of the rotation of the motor controls the cycles. Removing the agitator a 1/2″ socket set and a smaller ratchet set for the basket and a 1/2″ socket set for the tub, unhook the drain hose and pressure tube for the fill level and your left withe transmission assembly. First step is removal of the tub nut and seal. forget the spanner wrench as this being about ten years old the tub nut was firmly in place. I manged to get a good size pipe wrench on the tub nut and another wrench at the bottom of the transmission jammed against the tub support as the brake would not hold the transmission from turning, held everything in place, the tub nut began the turn only by hitting the wrench with a hammer. Wasting time, hours that is, is what i did believing that the tub nut would eventually spin off, no way. Next came the fact that the tub nut being cast aluminum and plastic would yield under the force of a ball pein hammer. First the top plastic part was chiseled away then then a couple of hits with the hammer removed most of the tub nut. Also the plastic tub housing and seal that hold the tub bearing was carefully chiseled away from the attaching screws so I could see the bearing and transmission shaft. Using a fiber saw blade on a circular saw I notched the remaining tub nut carefully to avoid damaging the transmission threads. A chisel and a hammer finished the job. Much faster than using the wrench to completely unscrew it from the transmission. On the bench the top tub support plate was removed and the transmission shaft and threads were cleaned up. The bearing was so worn all that was left was the inner and outer races and thankfully the inner race was not jammed onto the transmission shaft. I didn’t take any pictures of the removal process.
First was to mount the bearing housing and seal assembly, it simply bolted to the top plate.
Next mount the transmission to check the fit of the bearing/seal assembly
tub nut and seal in background
the new tub nut seal is a one piece assembly, it should thread on by hand
Using plenty of grease on the bearing assembly and tub nut seal thread it firmly in place, I didn’t use any tools to sock it down
I also want to replace the bottom bearing which is above the brake assembly and install a new snubber ring.
Remove the e clip and pulley, note the order of the various washers and bearings.
Next, remove the brake stator. It’s spring loaded so I didn’t know what to expect. There are 6 screws securing the stator, remove all but 2 that are across from each other and carefully remove them slowly releasing them and the spring tension.
Clean up the stator and rotor
Remove three screws securing the metal housing to the bearing assembly, remove the housing (not shown)
Use a puller to extract the bearing and housing of necessary.
test fit & install the replacement bearing and housing
check the fit of the brake rotor on the splined shaft and grease.
install the metal housing plate to the bearing assembly on the transmission with screws,then the spring and brake rotor to the transmission
place the snubber ring in place on the housing
using 2 screws that are the same diameter and thread but much longer than the originals push the stator assembly in and thread in the screws across from each other. tighten each alternately drawing in the stator to the housing.
When the stator is close enough, use the 4 original screws to secure the stator. Remove the extra long screws and replace the 2 other original screws. Alternately check all 6 screws for tightness.
Attach the washers ,bearings, and pulley assembly in the correct order. Grease and install the center ramped hub inside the pulley that activates the braking system.
Meanwhile back at the cabinet remove 2 screws that secure the motor plate. Inspect and grease where the motor slides.
re secure the motor plate and shield and inspect and clean the grounding points
Place the transmission back in the cabinet,
secure the suspension springs and install the belt.
Install the tub with a new gaskets and screws. connect the drain hose and water level pressure tube.
close the lid and plug in the machine, fill with water and check for leaks and proper operation of water level switch
Install the basket with gasket. NOTE: the tub nut does not come with threaded bores where the screws go in. the screws are large self tapping screws. You might want to apply a small amount of grease etc to them and take them down alternately. Make sure they are snug to the basket but don’t over torque them they are going into cast aluminum. The new style tub nut does not have the large plastic piece on the top like the older one. Re attach agitator components. do a small test load to check for leaks and proper operation of agitation and spinning cycles.
if all checks out, snap on top tub ring and replace cabinet front panel, secure top . Check supply hoses, drain line and rear access panel.
Well so far, so good, fill with a full load, open a beer and notice that the machine doesn’t dance across the floor and spins quieter.
now we will see how long this will last !
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