ON THE BENCH :KEURIG K35

ANOTHER BLUE MAT GROUP SERIES

CONTINUOUS RUN, INTERMITTENT RUN, INCORRECT CUP SIZE WATER OUTPUT

PUMP PROBLEMS?

SOMETIMES KEURIGS CAN BE FUSSY MACHINES ALWAYS HAVE HAD ONE. CONSIDERING THAT THIS IS THE MR COFFEE MACHINE MODERN REPLACEMENT AND IS USED AT LEAST ON A DAILY BASIS WHEN THEY RUN THEY ARE RELIABLE. SOME HAVE THE FEATURE TO INDICATE DE SCALING PROCEDURES NEEDED WHICH SHOULD BE DONE ON A REGULAR BASIS LIKE ESPRESSO MACHINES AND SOME TYPES OF WATER HEATERS FOR DOMESTIC HOT WATER.

THIS K35 ONE FROM A FAMILY MEMBER. DECIDED TO DO A TEAR DOWN OF THE PUMP JUST TO MAKE SURE IT WASN’T CLOGGED ETC.

ALSO THOSE INTERESTED IN MODS AND UP CYCLE CAN TAKE A LOOK

A YOUTUBE SEARCH REVELED HOW TO REMOVE THE CASINGS, JUST SOME SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM AND THE USUAL CLIPS

THE MAIN CIRCUIT BOARD. NOTICE THE 4 PINS IN THE LOWER RIGHT CORNER FOR ? ACCESSIBLE THROUGH A REMOVABLE COVER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE UNIT. DIDN’T DO AN EXHAUSTIVE SEARCH FOR THIS. NICE ! JST TYPE CONNECTORS ON THE CONNECTIONS

THE PUMP UN CLIPS FROM A MOUNT AND TUBING EASILY REMOVED.

CONNECTOR IS FOR SENSOR INSIDE THE PUMP , RED/ BLACK FOR 12 VDC POWER TO THE MOTOR NO PICTURES OF THE PUMP DIS ASSEMBLED, AN INTERESTING OFFSET DRIVE AND A SERIES OF TRI SPACE DIAPHRAGMS THAT DO THE PUMPING ACTION. I CONNECTED 12 VDC TO PUMP TO INSURE IT WASN’T STALLED OR DEFECTIVE.

DIDN’T APPEAR CLOGGED AND EASILY RE ASSEMBLED. CLIPS HOLD THE PUMP TO THE SEALED MOTOR.

_{^{TYPICAL WORK BENCH ENVIRONMENT}}, _{^{NOT A PROBLEM FOR ME.}}

THE PUMP IN PLACE

RED BLACK 12 VDC POWER

REASSEMBLED AND CUP SIZE WAS STILL OFF , LARGE WAS ALMOST 2 CUPS WATER OUTPUT. RAN THROUGH THE ABOVE PROCEDURE AND NOW THE KEURIG WATER OUTPUT IS WITH IN SPECIFICATIONS WILL CONTINUE TO BREW A FEW CUPS TO TEST.

THANKS FOR VIEWING, HAVE A CUP OF COFFEE.

reading: The Car: The Rise and Fall of the Machine that Made the Modern World

The Car: The Rise and Fall of the Machine that Made the Modern World [Kindle Edition]
By: Bryan Appleyard

There are those that portend that the transportation industry is about to change in radical way. Our former relationship with the automobile and it’s supporting industries is drastically being challenged. The love of our life will be a simple utility.

Before I comment, a moment of reflection. In today’s world consider any object including people.

Now that object is in a place. Consider the following.

Does object need to be moved?

How much energy is required to move that object.?

A totally cold assessment of transportation , I agree. but to some analyst that is the end game, a zoom out view of what needs to be considered in today’s world when every aspect of our lives may be quantified by cost, carbon footprint, environmental impact and safety.

Now back to the book.

This title caught my eye as electric vehicles have stirred such a frenzy like a poked hornets nest.

The haters have mounted a campaign in a last ditched effort to prove that the electric vehicle is a pipe dream concept and has no benefit over the ICE vehicles that we were taught to love. But the fact that a set amount of energy can only be extracted from a gallon of gas was a nail in the coffin of the Internal Combustion Engine no matter how “clean” it was. Other technologies could be improved many times.

From first hand experience, cars were a freedom to leave the nest, I bonded many friendships over grease and oil soaked clothes, grimy hands and tools. It was a benefit as far as the learning experience. I never attended any structured automotive education. We learned mechanical engineering by turning this or that and disassembling, modifying and repair as a way to afford our wheels. At the time our effort, time and labor didn’t get considered. For our generation and demographic the automobile was an escapism, a hobby and for some the calling to a career.

Later in life I came to question the allure of the automobile. No longer did I want to be prone, face up under a vehicle. It became a futile effort expending time and money to fuel, repair, insure, register and maintain this form of transportation. It was a point in life I didn’t have the need for transportation to get me to a physical location for employment.

One of the pivotal moments of transportation (and briefly mentioned in the book) was the birth of ride hailing. Amazing is the fact that it did not require a retooling of any sort. It was born from, as in my opinion we will see more of this, a stitching and marriage of software technology. Financial software gives us the ability to eliminate any sort of physical exchange of paper currency. Billing and payment is seamless with the service. Employment software let these services hire and manage the workforce of available drivers, a subset of the existing gig economy. Finally, mapping software and tracking allows instant , or close to it , on demand transportation from any point A to any point B. Quietly underrated this was in my opinion one of the greatest disruption and an option to the complex and increasing expensive mechanical contraptions that sit in our driveways. A direct counter culture to the heart of the Automotive Industry.

Purchase and ownership of the automobile is now not required.

This all combined to give the user a safe, up to date well maintained vehicle and vetted driver at their whim. The naysayers balked , taxis seemed to disappear from the landscape overnight. As with all technology it will evolve with the addition of electromechanical revelations and increased computer power, the driver will be removed from the equation.

This book goes into detail of the history of the automobile. From inception to it’s present state. It’s a bit thin on present but the author has laid the groundwork to make his point. The shift from horses to self powered vehicles was equally disturbing and disruptive to the way of travel and business. No one today mentions that we were at a time almost knee deep in horse shit or the pollution, disease and damage it caused.

The author brings up another lesser know fact that the expansive infrastructure required that followed the development of the automobile changed the landscape dramatically, the haters of the time rejected the idea of the proliferation of the automobile and it’s required infrastructure as it would be an ecological disaster waiting to happen. DID IT ?

So was the relationship of the automobile in our lives a grandiose effort to support the automotive and associated industries?

All in all, to me an interesting read The Car: The Rise and Fall of the Machine that Made the Modern World is yet to have the final chapter written. It’s about to unfold.

Addendum 10/02 :

Will part of the final chapter be that we are still being catered to as far being sold a device we don’t need? Is the illusion that the transportation we need is still a necessity of boasting ownership of speed, luxury and a status symbol we display ? How will industries react to a vehicle that does not require a driver and accidents are reduced to nearly none? Will signs be erected that read ” Autonomous vehicles only beyond this point” ? Perhaps the signage will be barcodes for the vehicle own sake.

On the bench.. VTVM Test probe kit.

This a continuation of the repair and restoration of a Simpson 303 VTVM.

The Blue Mat Group Member Series

ON THE BENCH: Vintage Simpson Model 303 Analog Vacuum Tube Volt Meter – UNTESTED

The final decision was to purchase this kit. $21.35 seemed pricey but the alternative was to scrounge around for parts and/or order the balance of parts I didn’t have. Considering what i would have to do and I wanted to get this job up and running to have as my main meter, I placed the order (eBay).

After receiving this kit I realized that this was the better choice. The coax cables were just the right size and flexible. The other included test lead wire quality matched to boot. All the parts needed were there , no need to raid the parts bins. Plus I would have some parts left over for the parts bins.

The kit, great packaging, recyclable for parts storage or use as seller packaging.

The meter waiting to be completed, My combo LED fluorescent bulb lamp in the reflection.

un boxing or un bagging

attention to detail even a Velcro loop is included.

A quick view of the eBay listing, the seller had pictures that answered all my assembly questions. The finish for this project had been on the back burner for weeks. Retrieved the parts bin, now where did I put that ? (mushroom container) for the repair to get the male parts of the connectors. Now where’s the schematic?

It was the normal start at the bench , prep the soldering iron ,replacing a piece. Then locating the schematic to the meter to verify the placement of the inline resistor to the correct probe and available for troubleshooting if required.. Assembly is straight forward, first I assembled the grounding lead, no problem soldering. The seller specified by pictures , 3 inches of stripping for the coax cables. The hardest part is the fishing of the inner conductor down through the probe handle and out through an angled bore at the end of the probe handle in the metal tip.

R29 1 megohm resistor in the probe, supplied by the kit.

schematic , most of it is the multiple decks of the multi layer rotary wafer switches

replacing the barrel sleeve on the iron.

cross section of the supplied wire from the kit

Once through, some of the stripped wire is pulled through and the probe trim ring is screwed to the top of the probe tip, locking the wire in place and making the connection.

The second time around for the second probe, was problematic, The center conductor was tinned,. After repeated ( time consuming) failed attempts, I fished a length of thin wire solder up from the tip and tacked the center conductor lead to it. Acting as a fish tape, I simply pulled the solder wire through. The wire followed !. Done with the probe set , nice. It’s a bit frustrating and time consuming fishing wires but the probe handles are permanently attached (as i first tried to unscrew them) so they won’t unscrew and loosen as another set I have does frequently. The completeness of the kit even includes labels for the probes and transparent heat shrink . Well Done !

The 1 meg ohm resistor soldered to the center conductor

the angled bore at the top of the probe tip.

using the solder wire as a wire puller

No problem, a time saver I should have used at the start.

tinned lead

folded back for connection to the male coax connector

I soldered the shield braid to the metal bushing

The completed connection less the outer part of the connector

The outer part just screws on with the nut, backed up the small cable with a few layers of shrink tubing.

The completed male end of the probe lead

On the other end the wires had to be stripped to connect the lead to the coax connector, supplied by me as I replaced the original connectors on the meter when rebuilding it. those male connectors are not available and not included when I bought the meter.

.At first the leads did not work ! Guess what ? The first tech help question “is the unit plugged in” applied. Duh..

Another problem was that on the ACV/ohm , the ohms reading was shorted and not reading. The problem was that the cable braid was shorting to the center conductor after the connector was assembled. I trimmed back the braid, it;s not necessary to connect it at the coax end of the lead.

A final check of the meter was done now and revealed that any AC voltage readings were not properly registering . Ouff! Troubleshooting time. Was the rectifier tube faulty? The tracing reveled an error either in the wiring or a crazy schematic.

Now the time began to fly. Mistakes by tracing the schematic wiring from one page to another lead me down a path that cost time. I pulled the stapled schematic paged apart folded them and joined the pages to indicate the correct path from one page to another. One problem solved. Now a broken wire to nowhere was found from one of the wafers . With the proper tracing, it was discovered that one of the capacitors replaced was in error, going to ground instead of going to the probe connector and to the tube.. Most of the tracing of this device is done by tracing layers of selector switches connected to banks of resistors. Keeping my fingers crossed the meter was plugged in and set to measure AC line voltage. Voila ! Success. Luckily the mistake did not damage the meter when I checked it with 120vac previously.

All in all, including making a cup of coffee break , the bench time was from 13:10 to 18:03 . Taking my pleasurably time with soldering and troubleshooting was worth it. The meter is now ready to go as the humidifier repair is next on the bench.

Now with the purchase and rebuilding of the meter and the probe kit the best part, of course is the use of an analog meter, a Simpson. I would do the required Happy Dance, but I don’t do dances.

1 megohm reading

Final AC line voltage test , before calibration

The coax connections offers better shielding when you need a accurate reading of low ac voltages and the proper isolation for high voltage readings .

5 stars for the kit, those who frequently order parts know the time that’s involved if one had to do all the working ordering all the parts included in this kit.

ON THE BENCH: REPLACEMENT CORD FOR TEAC TAPE DECK

ON THE VINTAGE TEAC TAPE DECKS THERE IS A SPECIALIZED , 2 CONDUCTOR POWER CORD NOT EASILY FOUND. SOMETIMES MISSING FROM A 2ND HAND TAPE DECK FROM AN AUCTION

SOME RESTORATIONS HAVE GONE TO THE TROUBLE OF REPLACING THE MALE SOCKET ON THE DECK WITH A MODERN 3 PRONG COMPUTER CORD STYLE RECEPTACLE , TODAY EASILY OBTAINED OR YOU PROBABLY HAVE A BOX OF THOSE CORDS FROM OVER THE YEARS. THE SOCKET WILL HAVE TO BE INSTALLED WITH A SOCKET THAT WILL FIR INTO THE ORIGINAL OPENING. SOME PERSONS WILL NOT WANT TO UPGRADE FROM ORIGINAL

I FOUND THIS QUICK REMEDY THAT ONLY REQUIRES A SLIGHT MODIFICATION OF THE ADAPTER, NOT THE DECK.

THE FEMALE ADAPTER

FROM ALI EXPRESS : New America 2 Pole 15A Male US Wiring Plug Adapter Female Socket Type A Power Strip Connector Japan Rewirable Cable Convert Plug

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803298077489.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.6f311802SANa7F

GET A SPARE TWO PRONG POWER CORD FROM A DISCARDED ELECTRONIC DEVICE. (OR BUY ONE)

CUT THE END AND REMOVE THE INSULATION, STRIP BACK AND PREP THE END FOR CONNECTION

CONNECT THE BARE WIRE ENDS TO THE WIRING PLUG FEMALE ADAPTER AND ASSEMBLE.

THE ADAPTER STILL DIDN’T FIT THE TEAC POWER SOCKET

GENTLY SAND OR FILE THE SIDES OF THE ADAPTER TILL IT FITS THE SOCKET , IT WON’T NEED MUCH , FOR A FINISHED LOOK POLISH THE SIDE OF THE ADAPTER ON A POLISHING WHEEL .

THIS ADAPTER MAY FIT OTHER 2 PRONG POWER VINTAGE DEVICES. I’M SATISFIED WITH THE QUALITY , BETTER THAN USING THE 2 CRIMP ON TERMINAL CONNECTORS WITH HEAT SHRINK INSULATION CONNECTED TO THE MALE PRONGS.

on the bench: the robots have arrived: SCOOBA 450

CONTINUING BLUEMAT GROUP MEMBER SERIES , Blue Anti Static Silicone Magnetic Repair Mat with Heat Insulation, Scale Ruler and Screw Position for Soldering Iron or Phone Repair Work Station

OF THE VINTAGE SERIES OF IROBOT DEVICES THE SCOOBA 450 IS THE LAST SERIES OF FLOOR WASHERS COMBO VACUUM MADE BEFORE IROBOT WENT WITH A DEDICATED TYPE FLOOR WASHER/MOP PAD STYLE. SEVERAL OTHER SCOOBA MODELS PRECEDED THE 450 AND MIMIC THE SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE ROOMBA (VACUUM SERIES) WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE SCOOBA 200.

THE ROOMBA 450 HAS A ROTATING BRUSH, WATER JETS, AND A SQUEEGEE WET VAC. THE UNIT EMPLOYS 2 TANKS IN ONE , ONE FOR CLEANING WATER AND ONE FOR WATER THAT GETS VACUUMED UP FROM THE FLOOR, COMPARED TO THE NEWER MODELS THAT CLEAN THE FLOOR BY APPLYING CLEANING FLUID AND USING A REMOVABLE REPLACEABLE MOPPING PAD (OR DRY MOP PAD).

THE SCOOBA 450 UTILIZES THE SAME BATTERY PACK AS THE VINTAGE ROOMBA VACUUMS THE PREVIOUS MODELS OF THE SCOOBA UTILIZES NICAD CELLS THAT ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THE ROOMBAS.

THOUGH IT’S PRIMARY USE ITS TO WASH THE FLOOR THE SCOOBA 450 ALSO VACUUMS UP DIRT, DUST AND SMALL DEBRIS WHILE IT WASHES THE FLOOR.

SERVICING AND TEAR DOWN OF THE WHEEL MOTORS

THE SCOOBA 450, LOOKS VERY SIMILAR TO THE ROOMBA SERIES

PHILIP HEAD SCREWS SECURE THE WHEEL, TIRES AND DRIVE RINGS

SIDE PLATE SURROUNDING WHEELS ARE EASILY REMOVED BY ONE SCREW

THE WHEEL MODULE REMOVED, THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR IS WATER PROOFED BY A GASKET , SIMILAR TO THE ROOMBA SERIES DESIGNED TO BE REPLACEMENT FRIENDLY.

THE MOTOR WHEEL DRIVE ASSEMBLY.

THE WHEEL MOTOR ASSEMBLY IS MOUNTED ON A PIVOTED SPRING LOADED SWING ARM. DRIVE OUT THE AXLE TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE GEAR TRAIN COVER

A FEW SMALL SCREWS SECURE THE GEAR TRAIN COVER. ONE OF THE SCREWS IS A TORX. USUALLY A SIGN THAT ONLY PERSONS WITH SPECIALIZED TOOLS SHOULD PROCEED.

THE GEAR DRIVING THE WHEEL HAS A METAL BEARING , A SIGN OF QUALITY AND LONGEVITY OF USE.

NORMALLY ONE WOULD NOT HAVE TO DISSEMBLE THIS, IT’S REPLACED AS A MODULE , VINTAGE PARTS USUALLY CAN BE SOURCED FROM AUCTION SITES IF THEY ARE NOT PRODUCED BY THE MANUFACTURER.

THE ENCODER OF THE MOTOR.

GEAR TRAIN COVER, WITH GASKET , AS THEY SAY, REVERSE THE PROCESS TO ASSEMBLE. THE SPRING TAKES A BIT OF FINESSE TO GET INTO PLACE WITH THE AXLE THE FIRST TIME.

WHILE ON THE BLUEMAT, CLEANED THE SQUEEGEE . UN-CLIP THE SQUEEGEE COMPONENTS AND CLEAN.

THE OTHER WIPER BLADE IS ATTACHED BY SCREWS.

RE ATTACHED TO THE HINGED PORTION , (GENTLY UN-CLIP FROM THE HINGES_ THE BRUSH SITS INTO THE ASSEMBLY , ONE SIDE HAS A SPROCKET TO MESH WITH THE BRUSH MOTOR.

THE COMPLETED 450

STILL REQUIRED TO HAVE THE BRUSH MODULE RE SEATED THE BRUSH WAS NOT FULLY MESHING WITH THE BRUSH MOTOR , WORKS WELL NOW.

on the bench : RCA SOUND CARTRIDGE TAPE DECK 1YB29A “the missing link”

$31.00, Tax$2.95, Shipping$9.16, Handling$2.00, Additional Donation$0.89. Order Total$46.00

September 21 2021 from shopGoodwill.com

Apparently there is a incorrect link to photos that are not showing please stand by ! Google photos links may be dynamic ?

Now we live in a world where recording music for our enjoyment or for that fact buying albums, CD’s records or whatever is not needed. Now with streaming services available the accessibility and storage of music is all digital. Enjoyment of music is now possible with a smart phone or streaming device. Our stereo equipment may just consist of a blue tooth speaker ! Back in the day we liked to have the concert experience at home. with powerful amps and huge speakers.

Before digital became available to the masses, to construct a playlist, we recorded “mix tapes” a collection of favorite songs usually recorded on cassettes. Also it was possible to record music from someone else who purchased the album thereby saving us from purchasing the music.

Before record able Cd’s and cassettes the audiophiles preferred recording format was the reel to reel. Relatively expensive method of storing sound, the quality though could mimic vinyl records depending on the quality and recording speed (and $$$) of the deck. the reel to reel was also a favored method of musicians and recording studios to produce records from master tapes.

Those who follow the progression of magnetic tape recording recording formats, a little know format was the RCA sound cartridge system. You can look up the history by googling etc.,circa 1958. As most remember Phillips developed the compact cassette that most are familiar with. Some claim Phillips stole the format from RCA and refined it to a smaller more cost effective size.

I was fortunate to grab this RCA SOUND CARTRIDGE TAPE DECK 1YB29A from an auction in a great condition. Not a collector as such as I have enough stuff around , it was curiosity to see this machine. Would it work? As the size is much larger than a compact cassette, it was developed when reel to reel machines were still available. Thus it was a link from the progression from reel to reel decks to the compact cassette. There are variants of this model some in stereo.

the unboxing

inspection of the item hmmmm. that would date this item to about 60 years old !

I also lucked out that the unit had a tape cartridge included.

THERE’S GOING TO BE A LOT OF PICTURES !

Here is a comparison picture of a compact cassette from the net as i didn’t get any size reference from pictures I took

Front panel removed

INSTEAD OF THE TYPICAL VU METER WE HAVE A TUBE TYPE INDICATOR

NICE! WE HAVE INSTRUCTIONS RIGHT ON THE UNIT HOW TO CHANGE THE TUBES

WE ARE POWERED UP

PLAY/ RECORD HEADS

TAPE MECHANISM ENGAGED TO PLAY. I LIKE THE FACT THAT THE PRESSURE PADS A E PART OF THE MACHINE. SOMETIMES THEY ARE TROUBLESOME IN COMPACT CASSETTES

THE PINCH ROLLER HAS A CRAZY DOUBLE JOINTED SWIVEL WHEN ENGAGED/DISENGAGED (CAPSTAN REMOVED) ENGAGED/DISENGAGED FROM PLAY FUNCTION

TUBE TYPE AND DIAGRAM, PIECE OF BELT REMAINS AT THE TOP

SPEAKER

SPEAKER AND CASE HANDLE MOUNTING

NO DRIVE, THE BELT REMAINS, REVERTED BACK TO OIL

BELT REMAINS

CHASSIS VIEW

DUE TO THE AGE AND THE FACT THAT THIS UNIT WORKED I LEFT AS IS FOR REFERENCE AND SALE

MOTOR AND DRIVE SPOOLS, MOTOR HAS STEPPED PULLEY

THE HOOKED ROD LINKAGE IS THE SPEED SHIFTER TO SHIFT THE BELT TO THE DIFFERENT STEP PULLEY

TAPE COUNTER BELT IS OK

OTHER END OF TAPE COUNTER BELT

CAPSTAN FLYWHEEL PULLEY

CAPSTAN BRACKET

REMOVAL AND CLEANING, I HAPPEN TO FIND AN ACCEPTABLE BELT FOR REPLACEMENT. THAT’S ALL THAT WAS NECESSARY TO RETURN THE UNIT TO WORKING CONDITION

PRESSURE PADS

CIRCUIT COMPONENTS, ALL POINT TO POINT WIRING, ORIGINAL APPEARANCE

WAFER SWITCH COMPLETE WITH OXIDATION

DE OXIT TO THE RESCUE

TAPE CART INSTALLED, IT HAD OLD TIME RECORDINGS OF A FARMER TALKING TO VARIOUS PEOPLE AND SOME FAMILY RECORDINGS. CLEARLY SIMILARITIES TO THE COMPACT CASSETTE

DID A TEST RECORDING AND THAT FUNCTION WORKED

FINISHED AND RE ASSEMBLED, PICTURE FOR EBAY SOLD FOR A BIT OVER $70.00 USD I HOPE IT WENT TO COLLECTOR WITH THE SPACE TO DISPLAY IT.

THE SOUND CARTRIDGE

BTW THE SPEED WAS SELECT ABLE TO 3 3/4 OR 1 7/8, THE BELT WAS SHIFTED TO A DIFFERENT PULLEY BUT MECHANICAL MEANS TO GET THE DIFFERENT SPEEDS. SOUND QUALITY WAS MOSTLY ACCEPTABLE FOR VOICE AND MUSIC AS ON PAR WITH OTHER RECORDING DEVICES IN THIS SPEED RANGE. THE HIGHER QUALITY DEVICES OF THE AGE ALSO UTILIZED 7 1/2 OR 15 INCHES PER SECOND OF TAPE SPEED

WITH COVER, ALL CLEANED UP THE END

i HAVE MORE DRAFTS WAITING TO BE COMPLETED SO MORE OF “ON THE BENCH ” SERIES WILL BE COMING SOON

ON THE BENCH: Vintage Simpson Model 303 Analog Vacuum Tube Volt Meter – UNTESTED

Order Summary From shopgoodwill.com

Subtotal$14.99

Tax$1.90

Shipping $8.78

Handling$3.49

Additional Donation$0.84

Order Total$30.00

Ask around for a recommendation for a good multi meter and get plenty of suggestions. Most people like the digital auto readout that takes the guesswork out of changing knobs and settings to measure voltage and resistance. The name Simpson is synonymous with a high quality meter. Many techs from the day had one on the bench or in the field. namely the model 260 in a few variants. Just a rough check now, a current 260 new will be around $400.00 USD. they are know for reliability, ruggedness and accuracy. Because of the quality build, many, many of the 260 series can be purchased on the secondary market. That is if an analog meter is your game.

While digital meters can be inviting and easy to read they don’t show any transients quite like an analog meter. True, some digital meters have a bar graph display that will show changes, it’s not as telling as the sweep of the needle of the full analog meter. It’s better than digital when peaking measurements for calibration. Using the meter often the scales of the meter get familiar and are read with ease.

Presently I have a multi meter, another purchased used and refurbished the small Amprobe AM 2A meter also purchased from shopgoodwill.com for $18.03 delivered. It does the job after frying out a china sourced basic not more than a few dollars analog meter.

Without a long winded explanation of the benefits of a high impedance input meter for accuracy, another tech staple is the VTVM or irreverently know as the vommit meter. As the acronym implies, Vacuum Tube Volt Meter, has a vacuum tube on the input for accuracy. Mostly for bench use because of the need for 120 vac power, they are a must have if precision voltage measurement is required, especially for calibration of equipment to manufactures standards. Some calibration instructions will list a VTVM as a requirement and may even specify the brand.

The Simpson Model 303 Analog Vacuum Tube Volt Meter is a good example of a good all around fairly priced used multi meter, rugged and well built as we will see. Made to last these are excellent candidates for over haul.

First a couple of tips if you are following and will attempt repairs:

BAG AND TAG FASTENERS AND PARTS WHEN REMOVED AND THEIR LOCATION.

TAG CIRCUIT BOARDS AS TO THEIR PLACEMENT WHEN REMOVED

TAG WIRES AS TO THEIR CONNECTION POINT AND FUNCTION WHEN UNPLUGGED/DE-SOLDERED

TAKE PHOTOS BEFORE DIS ASSEMBLY, AND/OR KEEP NOTES OR A LOG OF PROCEDURES AND STEPS

PREPARE FOR THE POSSIBILITY THE REPAIR MAY SPAN SEVERAL WEEKS AS PARTS ON ORDER OR OTHER JOBS ARISE.

DOWNLOAD/PURCHASE USER MANUAL. SCHEMATICS AND PARTS DIAGRAMS (ACTUALLY THIS CAN BE DONE PRIOR TO PURCHASE TO SEE WHATS INVOLVED)

NOTES ANY DIFFERENCES ON SCHEMATICS AND DIAGRAMS, MANUFACTURES CAN BE NOTORIOUS FOR NOT SUPPLYING AN “AS BUILT” OR ERRATA OR REVISION SHEETS. SOME SCHEMATICS MAY BE FOR A GENERIC MODEL.

HAVE THE PROPER TOOLS AND TEST EQUIPMENT AVAILABLE

CONSULT REPAIR VIDEOS AND FORUMS FOR INSIGHT AS TO WHATS INVOLVED AND COSTLY PARTS AND ITEMS THAT MAY OR MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE

LETS GO

THE ARRIVAL

FIRST LOOK THE ACV INPUT HAS BEEN REPLACED WITH A PUSHBUTTON SWITCH

THE PREVIOUS OWNER WAS OBSESSED WITH THE SERIAL NUMBER, ETCHED IN SEVERAL PLACES ON THE METER

THE COAXIAL CONNECTORS OF THESE METERS ARE OF A PROPRIETARY SIZE, NOT READILY AVAILABLE, THERE ARE SEVERAL WORKAROUNDS RESEARCHED THROUGH THE INTERNET. EBAY OFFERS A CUSTOM REPLACEMENT SET IF YOU DON’T WANT TO MODIFY THE METER, AT A COST

WIRE WOUND PRECISION RESISTORS BANKS , ADJUSTMENT POTS, SELECTOR SWITCHES AND TRANSFORMERS

THE PUSH BUTTON IN THE PLACE OF THE ACV INPUT ??? TRACED THE SCHEMATIC, APPARENT IT IS A GROUNDING SWITCH PROBABLY FOR ZEROING THE METER DURING RESISTANCE MEASURMENTS

THE ROTARY SWITCHES ARE IN GOOD SHAPE AND WILL BE CLEANED WITH DEOXIT

BATTERY CLIP IN GOOD SHAPE NO EVIDENCE OF BATTERY LEAKAGE

ONE OF THE 2 TUBES , TO THE LEFT THE SELENIUM RECTIFIER THAT WILL BE REPLACED WITH A DIODE

REMOVAL OF THE FACEPLATE AND GLASS

METER ASSEMBLY IS EXCELLENT

REMOVAL OF METER MOVEMENT FROM THE CASE

THE TWO TUBES, HAVE NO WAY OF CHECKING THEM AT THIS TIME

POTENTIOMETER ADJUSTMENT BLOCK

BATTERY CLIP AND METER CONNECTIONS REMOVAL

REMOVAL OF THE STANDOFF FOR THE RESISTOR GANG

THE OTHER SIDE IS A STEPPED STANDOFF FOR THE RESISTOR GANG

SET UP AS SHOWN

DCV INPUT JACK, NOT ORIGINAL WIRINGING

HOLDING THE INNARDS, ROTATE AROUND THREADED THE GROUND PIN JACK IN THE FRONT TO REMOVE GUTS FROM THE CASE. OR UNSOLD ER ALL THE GROUND LUG WIRES (NO)

THANKS TO THE WIRING CABLES AND WRAPPING, THE GUTS STAY TOGETHER , SO MUCH FOR CONNECTORS AND FRAGILE RIBBON CABLES, ALL POINT TO POINT WIRING

THER ARE ONLY 4 CAPACITORS IN THE METER ALL TO BE REPLACED

CLEANING STORAGE AND BAGGED AND TAGGED ITEMS

THE BAKELITE CASE PARTS CLEANED

SOME OF THE PAINT WAS REMOVED DURING THE SOAKING PROCESS AS EXPECTED WITH VINTAGE ITEM

THE LETTERING WAS RESTORED WITH A PAINT PEN, SOMEONE DRILLED HOLES IN THE BACK TO ACCESS THE ADJUSTMENT POTS

TEST FIT OF THE CASE AND KNOBS

BECAUSE OF THE HEAT FROM THE TUBES, VENT TUBES ARE ON BOTH SIDES. NO HANDLE WAS INCLUDED

MAYBE OVERKILL, I BUFFED UP THE BAKELITE ON THE BUFFING WHEEL

METER MOVEMENT FINE, ZEROS PROPERLY

REPLACEMENT CAPACITORS FROM DIGIKEY

CHECKING ASSEMBLY

LEAVING THE RECTIFIER IN PLACE FOR PROPER SUPPORT, THE DIODE AND RESISTOR AFTER THE TRANSFORMER WAS HEAT SHRINKED INSULATED AND TUCKED AWAY

ONE THE THE CAPS REPLACED, NEW COMPONENTS ARE SMALLER THAN ORIGINALS

BATTERY IN PLACE

NOT SHOWN, WITH A DREMEL FITTED WITH A REAMER, I CAREFULLY MARKED OUT THE INCREASED DIAMETER NEED TO ACCOMMODATE THE 259 COAX CONNECTOR JACKS. MOST INFO ON THIS MOD SUGGEST THAT DRILLING HOLES WILL CRACK THE BAKELITE. THE CONNECTORS JUST FIT ! ALSO WITH THE SANDING DRUM MACHINED THE SURROUNDING THICKNESS TO ACCEPT THE DEPTH OF THE ATTACHMENT NUT.\ THREADS THE ATTACHING NUT WAS SLIGHTLY GROUND ROUND TO FIT THE CASE

THE CAPS REPLACED

CONNECTORS AND JACKS VIA ALI EXPRESS

SOMETIMES MYSTIFIED WITH THE MYRIAD OF REPLACEMENT CAPACITORS, HOPE THEY WORK

THE FINISHED METER LESS THE LEADS AND PROBES. AT FINAL ASSEMBLY IT WAS TESTED BY JUMPER WIRES, THE TUBE HEATER FILAMENTS GLOWED AND THE METER WAS ABLE TO BE CALIBRATED AS PER INSTRUCTIONS YEA! YES, WITH THE MALE CONNECTORS SCREWED ON THERE IS ENOUGH CLEARANCE FOR THE SELECTOR KNOBS TO BE ROTATED.

THE REAR, THE LINE CORD HAD BEEN SPLICED, NO PROBLEM FOR ME

LOOKING INTO THE PROCESS OF BUILDING MY OWN LEADS AND PROBES, HAVEN’T DECIDED YET AS THERE ARE AVAILABLE KITS ON EBAY SO I WON’T HAVE TO ORDER ALL THE PARTS I DON’T HAVE

on the bench: the robots have arrived: Roomba 690

irobot 690 (alpha)

goodwill $9.99

total with shipping and handling 29.17

As of this writing a fleet of irobot products keep my floors clean

This is the first one. Was lucky to attain this one working, but needing a good clean.

Disassembly is easy, many of the parts are modular and meant to be replaced. The 690 is a WiFi model compatible with the iRobot app. Also the irobot product is popular, parts are plentiful as also the on line resources to repair and service these.

One feature here is that I assumed that the robot simply swept dirt, dust, excetera, into the dust bin. But these are a true vacuum as the dust bin has a small fan motor providing suction and a filter, the motor gets power from contacts to the main chassis, allowing easy removal for emptying.

The brushes are easily removable without tools for cleaning

The bottom cover removes with 4 screws and the removal of the side brush , one screw for that. The battery is exposed and removable. The battery was also able to hold a full charge.

The battery, contacts and swivel wheel.

as with the wheel and motors, the brush holder is removable with a few screws. All powered modules are plug in, no soldering needed. The circular metal disc is the “dirt detector”

rectangular connector for the wheel/motor assembly

The removable wheel/motor assembly

same with the side brush motor

IR emitters and receptors are for edge detection, so the robot doesn’t jump off a cliff (or stairs)

Front bumper retainer removed

detail of the front bumper spring steel and IR beacon that attaches with 2 small screws

front bumper removed, and front swivel caster, note more ir emitter and detectors along the front edge

front swivel caster socket again easily removable

top trim panels simply unclip

making our way to the motherboard

all plug in connectors to the motherboard

Top cover fully removed

WIFI module and antenna connector

bottom view

Parts after tear down and cleaning

ready for assembly

ready to roll !

new side brush installed

charging base cleaned up also

close up of the cleaned unit

At home base awaiting commands

According to my time stamps, The robot has been on duty for slightly over 10 months at time of this writing. preforming flawless as far as operational. The only bugs are robot proofing your home. Such items are thick shaggy carpets and throw rugs , some are small rugs , not wall to wall, that the robot may faulter on , that is drive on the rug , and then off becoming stuck in a small area because it will not climb back on the carpet. Cords are the worst enemy that will cause a jam or worse, snagging some knitting yarn and entangling itself hopelessly in the processing causing the knitter to shout expletives after the robot digests the latest knitting project. (though the robots can be linked to voice controlled devices like Alexa, shouting at them will be fruitless.) Sneakers and shoes may be dragged across the room also. Small tables like on hardwood floors may be moved or jostled so those knick nacks may be damaged by the relentless contact of the robot maneuvering about. Lower kitchen cabinet kickpanel areas may be just the right height to jam the device, 690 can be a brute negotiating some thresholds, closing doors that are easily moved, shutting itself in the bathroom as an example and can move small light weigh furniture on hardwood and tile floors from it’s impact. Though the IR “eyes” work on some barriers and slow the robot, some don’t.

Since all of our floors are either hardwood or tile the robot tirelessly bounces around the areas relentlessly in some cases till it returns home to replenish it battery , all automatically. Currently I have 2 Roomba 960’s, scheduled to sweep and vac daily running alternating days of the week. It’s surprising to see the accumulation in the dust bins, hair, dirt and dust with occasion onions skins etc. These are not made to pickup large debris but once used on a daily basis here the floors are kept very clean. ( Ive also employed Scoobas and Braavas for wet mopping.) rarely you will need the broom and the dustpan again just once in a great while to touch up some spots unreachable by the robots side brush. Overall cleaning is excellent with a obsession sometimes with the edge cleaning pattern. Not all ares are covered daily, sometimes a room will be missed but cleaned the next day. The run cycle is about 2 hours, way more than you would do it manually, the noise level is acceptable to most and of course can be scheduled to clean while you out. Suddenly need a mess swept up? Instead of grabbing the broom, place the roomba where needed and hit the spot clean button. The robot will do a circular spiral dance in the area and stop.

The app will give you feedback on progress and errors requiring human intervention. The robots firmware can also be upgraded if necessary and keeps statics with the mothership like number of cleaning jobs (479), total job time (503 hrs and 58 minutes) and a dirt event count (19795 events) A “dirt detector” is located in the brush compartment and will cause the roomba to spiral an area before proceeding ahead.

While these are used and discontinued models, they are inexpensive compared to the newer ones. On a daily basis or so simply empty the dustbin and periodically clean the roller/brushes. Several more iRobots have crossed the bench with the Scoobas and Braavas and should be posted later in the blog. it’s one of those chores you never want to do again, sweeping and cleaning the floors. Now reduced to periodically servicing these machines.

ON THE BENCH : HORN BAROMETER

Order Summary

Subtotal $9.99

Tax $1.48

Shipping $8.12

Handling $2.99

Order Total $22.58

Usually barometers and such may come attached to wooden boards, a ships wheel or just a round wooden disk. Some are contained in a brass case as the previous post.

This one was mounted inside a circular horn. Makes for an interesting display either on the wall or shelf.

Don’t see too many of these a-round.

As usual a bit of cleanup and a repair to the mechanism.

I returned the metal to a polish finish from the original which also had some red tape affixed to the circular pat of the horn tubing.

The dial is approximately 3 1/4 inches and the horn diameter is about 4 3/4 inches

unboxing

dis assembly of the mechanism

some rust on the case to deal with, the mechanism is in good shape

rear case

the horn mouthpiece

the red tape on the tubing.

cleaning

the dial is in excellent shape after a cleanup

one side of the pivot had to be reset, it was knocked from it’s intended position. No idea how it got like than other from a sharp knock

An aneriod barometer, the silver circular chamber is sealed and pressure changes are linked to the to the pointer shaft through levers and finally a tiny chain the is wound around the indicator shaft. Cleaned and oiled all rotating and moving pieces.

re assembly, the circular part of the tubing was plated metal.

finished for now.

Some touch up polishing and cleaning to be completed, fasteners for the bottom of the case needed

on the bench: wempe barometer and clock

purchased from Goodwill online $43.88 , total with shipping and handling $63.00

parts needed 1 battery LR 1 , $2.85 total

arrival of the imstruments

in fairly good shape, the second hand on the clock is bent, no battery

mounted on a wooden base for hanging

bent second hand

on the side some major pitting in areas

pitting and corrosion present

a full circle dog handle, nice touch

removal from the board

rear of the clock

dis assembly of the lenses

all metal construction of the cases

removal of the case from the rear plate

removal of the clock from the case

rear of the clock and the time setting knob

battery contacts in good condition, need LR-1 battery none in stock

barometer lens

removal of the front cover

starting the cleaning

aligning the clock hands

cleaning , a combining of polishing compound and metal polish (Brasso)

making progress

better looking

reassemble the cases

bright and shiny

An old pump motor acquired from a lot, with a chuck attached and an arbor set up with buffing wheel. Clamped to bench, powered polisher/buffer wheel

remounted to base, didn’t refinish the board

elbow grease and polisher machine with the Brasso brought the finish back to high gloss.

No sign of the pitting and corrosion

done for now , battery ordered

arrival of the battery

clipped into place

The clock is running !!! Keeps perfect time !

Not bad for just a cleanup, aligning of the clock hands and a battery. Was going to sell it, but it’s such a beautiful piece I still have it. Wempe instrumentation is a bit scarcer than a Shatz or a Chelsea. The clock ,though it is battery powered vs. a windup with chimes is still very good quality moment.