Over many years is there a place that I’ve frequented that is still there? With all the hustle and bustle of life, people and places can change. Old memories fade but one that resides is the power of the ocean.
Being engulfed in the salted mineralized water, the rolling, foaming surf goes way back. On a sunny day, submerged, look up to see the glimmer of the seawaters’ content. The call of nature some would say. The permanence of the ocean on the planet, and a place of force and energy that is always there.
The never-ending power of nature can be felt here, the water mysteriously flows and ebbs, looking down at your stance at the water’s edge gives an illusion of motion. The wind and the sun may cycle , but the waves relentlessly flow to the shore.
If the tide cooperates and the swells are large enough, wade out to where the waves’ curls originate, a long bobbing wait for the right timing, YOU are the surfboard, with practice, facing the shore line, catch a swell just before it breaks, jump up into it, hands joined together and arms extended in front of your body, head down.
Done right, you’ll feel the curl of the wave beneath your belly. Relax. The foamy mixture roars in your ears the wave provides your momentum. One and a great while, the curls will cascade, one replacing the depleated first, at the right sync, providing a longer ride. The sea retreats, leaving your body beached many feet from the waves origin.
Metro Blog 
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