CONTINUOUS RUN, INTERMITTENT RUN, INCORRECT CUP SIZE WATER OUTPUT
PUMP PROBLEMS?
SOMETIMES KEURIGS CAN BE FUSSY MACHINES ALWAYS HAVE HAD ONE. CONSIDERING THAT THIS IS THE MR COFFEE MACHINE MODERN REPLACEMENT AND IS USED AT LEAST ON A DAILY BASIS WHEN THEY RUN THEY ARE RELIABLE. SOME HAVE THE FEATURE TO INDICATE DE SCALING PROCEDURES NEEDED WHICH SHOULD BE DONE ON A REGULAR BASIS LIKE ESPRESSO MACHINES AND SOME TYPES OF WATER HEATERS FOR DOMESTIC HOT WATER.
THIS K35 ONE FROM A FAMILY MEMBER. DECIDED TO DO A TEAR DOWN OF THE PUMP JUST TO MAKE SURE IT WASN’T CLOGGED ETC.
ALSO THOSE INTERESTED IN MODS AND UP CYCLE CAN TAKE A LOOK
A YOUTUBE SEARCH REVELED HOW TO REMOVE THE CASINGS, JUST SOME SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM AND THE USUAL CLIPS
THE MAIN CIRCUIT BOARD. NOTICE THE 4 PINS IN THE LOWER RIGHT CORNER FOR ? ACCESSIBLE THROUGH A REMOVABLE COVER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE UNIT. DIDN’T DO AN EXHAUSTIVE SEARCH FOR THIS. NICE ! JST TYPE CONNECTORS ON THE CONNECTIONS
THE PUMP UN CLIPS FROM A MOUNT AND TUBING EASILY REMOVED.
CONNECTOR IS FOR SENSOR INSIDE THE PUMP , RED/ BLACK FOR 12 VDC POWER TO THE MOTOR NO PICTURES OF THE PUMP DIS ASSEMBLED, AN INTERESTING OFFSET DRIVE AND A SERIES OF TRI SPACE DIAPHRAGMS THAT DO THE PUMPING ACTION. I CONNECTED 12 VDC TO PUMP TO INSURE IT WASN’T STALLED OR DEFECTIVE.
DIDN’T APPEAR CLOGGED AND EASILY RE ASSEMBLED. CLIPS HOLD THE PUMP TO THE SEALED MOTOR.
TYPICAL WORK BENCH ENVIRONMENT,NOT A PROBLEM FOR ME.
THE PUMP IN PLACE
RED BLACK 12 VDC POWER
REASSEMBLED AND CUP SIZE WAS STILL OFF , LARGE WAS ALMOST 2 CUPS WATER OUTPUT. RAN THROUGH THE ABOVE PROCEDURE AND NOW THE KEURIG WATER OUTPUT IS WITH IN SPECIFICATIONS WILL CONTINUE TO BREW A FEW CUPS TO TEST.
$31.00, Tax$2.95, Shipping$9.16, Handling$2.00, Additional Donation$0.89. Order Total$46.00
September 21 2021 from shopGoodwill.com
Apparently there is a incorrect link to photos that are not showing please stand by ! Google photos links may be dynamic ?
Now we live in a world where recording music for our enjoyment or for that fact buying albums, CD’s records or whatever is not needed. Now with streaming services available the accessibility and storage of music is all digital. Enjoyment of music is now possible with a smart phone or streaming device. Our stereo equipment may just consist of a blue tooth speaker ! Back in the day we liked to have the concert experience at home. with powerful amps and huge speakers.
Before digital became available to the masses, to construct a playlist, we recorded “mix tapes” a collection of favorite songs usually recorded on cassettes. Also it was possible to record music from someone else who purchased the album thereby saving us from purchasing the music.
Before record able Cd’s and cassettes the audiophiles preferred recording format was the reel to reel. Relatively expensive method of storing sound, the quality though could mimic vinyl records depending on the quality and recording speed (and $$$) of the deck. the reel to reel was also a favored method of musicians and recording studios to produce records from master tapes.
Those who follow the progression of magnetic tape recording recording formats, a little know format was the RCA sound cartridge system. You can look up the history by googling etc.,circa 1958. As most remember Phillips developed the compact cassette that most are familiar with. Some claim Phillips stole the format from RCA and refined it to a smaller more cost effective size.
I was fortunate to grab this RCA SOUND CARTRIDGE TAPE DECK 1YB29A from an auction in a great condition. Not a collector as such as I have enough stuff around , it was curiosity to see this machine. Would it work? As the size is much larger than a compact cassette, it was developed when reel to reel machines were still available. Thus it was a link from the progression from reel to reel decks to the compact cassette. There are variants of this model some in stereo.
the unboxing
inspection of the item hmmmm. that would date this item to about 60 years old !
I also lucked out that the unit had a tape cartridge included.
THERE’S GOING TO BE A LOT OF PICTURES !
Here is a comparison picture of a compact cassette from the net as i didn’t get any size reference from pictures I took
Front panel removed
INSTEAD OF THE TYPICAL VU METER WE HAVE A TUBE TYPE INDICATOR
NICE! WE HAVE INSTRUCTIONS RIGHT ON THE UNIT HOW TO CHANGE THE TUBES
WE ARE POWERED UP
PLAY/ RECORD HEADS
TAPE MECHANISM ENGAGED TO PLAY. I LIKE THE FACT THAT THE PRESSURE PADS A E PART OF THE MACHINE. SOMETIMES THEY ARE TROUBLESOME IN COMPACT CASSETTES
THE PINCH ROLLER HAS A CRAZY DOUBLE JOINTED SWIVEL WHEN ENGAGED/DISENGAGED (CAPSTAN REMOVED) ENGAGED/DISENGAGED FROM PLAY FUNCTION
TUBE TYPE AND DIAGRAM, PIECE OF BELT REMAINS AT THE TOP
SPEAKER
SPEAKER AND CASE HANDLE MOUNTING
NO DRIVE, THE BELT REMAINS, REVERTED BACK TO OIL
BELT REMAINS
CHASSIS VIEW
DUE TO THE AGE AND THE FACT THAT THIS UNIT WORKED I LEFT AS IS FOR REFERENCE AND SALE
MOTOR AND DRIVE SPOOLS, MOTOR HAS STEPPED PULLEY
THE HOOKED ROD LINKAGE IS THE SPEED SHIFTER TO SHIFT THE BELT TO THE DIFFERENT STEP PULLEY
TAPE COUNTER BELT IS OK
OTHER END OF TAPE COUNTER BELT
CAPSTAN FLYWHEEL PULLEY
CAPSTAN BRACKET
REMOVAL AND CLEANING, I HAPPEN TO FIND AN ACCEPTABLE BELT FOR REPLACEMENT. THAT’S ALL THAT WAS NECESSARY TO RETURN THE UNIT TO WORKING CONDITION
PRESSURE PADS
CIRCUIT COMPONENTS, ALL POINT TO POINT WIRING, ORIGINAL APPEARANCE
WAFER SWITCH COMPLETE WITH OXIDATION
DE OXIT TO THE RESCUE
TAPE CART INSTALLED, IT HAD OLD TIME RECORDINGS OF A FARMER TALKING TO VARIOUS PEOPLE AND SOME FAMILY RECORDINGS. CLEARLY SIMILARITIES TO THE COMPACT CASSETTE
DID A TEST RECORDING AND THAT FUNCTION WORKED
FINISHED AND RE ASSEMBLED, PICTURE FOR EBAY SOLD FOR A BIT OVER $70.00 USD I HOPE IT WENT TO COLLECTOR WITH THE SPACE TO DISPLAY IT.
THE SOUND CARTRIDGE
BTW THE SPEED WAS SELECT ABLE TO 3 3/4 OR 1 7/8, THE BELT WAS SHIFTED TO A DIFFERENT PULLEY BUT MECHANICAL MEANS TO GET THE DIFFERENT SPEEDS. SOUND QUALITY WAS MOSTLY ACCEPTABLE FOR VOICE AND MUSIC AS ON PAR WITH OTHER RECORDING DEVICES IN THIS SPEED RANGE. THE HIGHER QUALITY DEVICES OF THE AGE ALSO UTILIZED 7 1/2 OR 15 INCHES PER SECOND OF TAPE SPEED
WITH COVER, ALL CLEANED UP THE END
i HAVE MORE DRAFTS WAITING TO BE COMPLETED SO MORE OF “ON THE BENCH ” SERIES WILL BE COMING SOON
Ask around for a recommendation for a good multi meter and get plenty of suggestions. Most people like the digital auto readout that takes the guesswork out of changing knobs and settings to measure voltage and resistance. The name Simpson is synonymous with a high quality meter. Many techs from the day had one on the bench or in the field. namely the model 260 in a few variants. Just a rough check now, a current 260 new will be around $400.00 USD. they are know for reliability, ruggedness and accuracy. Because of the quality build, many, many of the 260 series can be purchased on the secondary market. That is if an analog meter is your game.
While digital meters can be inviting and easy to read they don’t show any transients quite like an analog meter. True, some digital meters have a bar graph display that will show changes, it’s not as telling as the sweep of the needle of the full analog meter. It’s better than digital when peaking measurements for calibration. Using the meter often the scales of the meter get familiar and are read with ease.
Presently I have a multi meter, another purchased used and refurbished the small Amprobe AM 2A meter also purchased from shopgoodwill.com for $18.03 delivered. It does the job after frying out a china sourced basic not more than a few dollars analog meter.
Without a long winded explanation of the benefits of a high impedance input meter for accuracy, another tech staple is the VTVM or irreverently know as the vommit meter. As the acronym implies, Vacuum Tube Volt Meter, has a vacuum tube on the input for accuracy. Mostly for bench use because of the need for 120 vac power, they are a must have if precision voltage measurement is required, especially for calibration of equipment to manufactures standards. Some calibration instructions will list a VTVM as a requirement and may even specify the brand.
The Simpson Model 303 Analog Vacuum Tube Volt Meter is a good example of a good all around fairly priced used multi meter, rugged and well built as we will see. Made to last these are excellent candidates for over haul.
First a couple of tips if you are following and will attempt repairs:
BAG AND TAG FASTENERS AND PARTS WHEN REMOVED AND THEIR LOCATION.
TAG CIRCUIT BOARDS AS TO THEIR PLACEMENT WHEN REMOVED
TAG WIRES AS TO THEIR CONNECTION POINT AND FUNCTION WHEN UNPLUGGED/DE-SOLDERED
TAKE PHOTOS BEFORE DIS ASSEMBLY, AND/OR KEEP NOTES OR A LOG OF PROCEDURES AND STEPS
PREPARE FOR THE POSSIBILITY THE REPAIR MAY SPAN SEVERAL WEEKS AS PARTS ON ORDER OR OTHER JOBS ARISE.
DOWNLOAD/PURCHASE USER MANUAL. SCHEMATICS AND PARTS DIAGRAMS (ACTUALLY THIS CAN BE DONE PRIOR TO PURCHASE TO SEE WHATS INVOLVED)
NOTES ANY DIFFERENCES ON SCHEMATICS AND DIAGRAMS, MANUFACTURES CAN BE NOTORIOUS FOR NOT SUPPLYING AN “AS BUILT” OR ERRATA OR REVISION SHEETS. SOME SCHEMATICS MAY BE FOR A GENERIC MODEL.
HAVE THE PROPER TOOLS AND TEST EQUIPMENT AVAILABLE
CONSULT REPAIR VIDEOS AND FORUMS FOR INSIGHT AS TO WHATS INVOLVED AND COSTLY PARTS AND ITEMS THAT MAY OR MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE
LETS GO
THE ARRIVALFIRST LOOK THE ACV INPUT HAS BEEN REPLACED WITH A PUSHBUTTON SWITCH
THE PREVIOUS OWNER WAS OBSESSED WITH THE SERIAL NUMBER, ETCHED IN SEVERAL PLACES ON THE METER
THE COAXIAL CONNECTORS OF THESE METERS ARE OF A PROPRIETARY SIZE, NOT READILY AVAILABLE, THERE ARE SEVERAL WORKAROUNDS RESEARCHED THROUGH THE INTERNET. EBAY OFFERS A CUSTOM REPLACEMENT SET IF YOU DON’T WANT TO MODIFY THE METER, AT A COST
WIRE WOUND PRECISION RESISTORS BANKS , ADJUSTMENT POTS, SELECTOR SWITCHES AND TRANSFORMERSTHE PUSH BUTTON IN THE PLACE OF THE ACV INPUT ??? TRACED THE SCHEMATIC, APPARENT IT IS A GROUNDING SWITCH PROBABLY FOR ZEROING THE METER DURING RESISTANCE MEASURMENTSTHE ROTARY SWITCHES ARE IN GOOD SHAPE AND WILL BE CLEANED WITH DEOXITBATTERY CLIP IN GOOD SHAPE NO EVIDENCE OF BATTERY LEAKAGEONE OF THE 2 TUBES , TO THE LEFT THE SELENIUM RECTIFIER THAT WILL BE REPLACED WITH A DIODEREMOVAL OF THE FACEPLATE AND GLASSMETER ASSEMBLY IS EXCELLENTREMOVAL OF METER MOVEMENT FROM THE CASETHE TWO TUBES, HAVE NO WAY OF CHECKING THEM AT THIS TIMEPOTENTIOMETER ADJUSTMENT BLOCK
BATTERY CLIP AND METER CONNECTIONS REMOVAL
REMOVAL OF THE STANDOFF FOR THE RESISTOR GANGTHE OTHER SIDE IS A STEPPED STANDOFF FOR THE RESISTOR GANGSET UP AS SHOWNDCV INPUT JACK, NOT ORIGINAL WIRINGINGHOLDING THE INNARDS, ROTATE AROUND THREADED THE GROUND PIN JACK IN THE FRONT TO REMOVE GUTS FROM THE CASE. OR UNSOLD ER ALL THE GROUND LUG WIRES (NO)THANKS TO THE WIRING CABLES AND WRAPPING, THE GUTS STAY TOGETHER , SO MUCH FOR CONNECTORS AND FRAGILE RIBBON CABLES, ALL POINT TO POINT WIRINGTHER ARE ONLY 4 CAPACITORS IN THE METER ALL TO BE REPLACEDCLEANING STORAGE AND BAGGED AND TAGGED ITEMSTHE BAKELITE CASE PARTS CLEANEDSOME OF THE PAINT WAS REMOVED DURING THE SOAKING PROCESS AS EXPECTED WITH VINTAGE ITEMTHE LETTERING WAS RESTORED WITH A PAINT PEN, SOMEONE DRILLED HOLES IN THE BACK TO ACCESS THE ADJUSTMENT POTSTEST FIT OF THE CASE AND KNOBSBECAUSE OF THE HEAT FROM THE TUBES, VENT TUBES ARE ON BOTH SIDES. NO HANDLE WAS INCLUDEDMAYBE OVERKILL, I BUFFED UP THE BAKELITE ON THE BUFFING WHEEL METER MOVEMENT FINE, ZEROS PROPERLY
REPLACEMENT CAPACITORS FROM DIGIKEY
CHECKING ASSEMBLYLEAVING THE RECTIFIER IN PLACE FOR PROPER SUPPORT, THE DIODE AND RESISTOR AFTER THE TRANSFORMER WAS HEAT SHRINKED INSULATED AND TUCKED AWAYONE THE THE CAPS REPLACED, NEW COMPONENTS ARE SMALLER THAN ORIGINALSBATTERY IN PLACENOT SHOWN, WITH A DREMEL FITTED WITH A REAMER, I CAREFULLY MARKED OUT THE INCREASED DIAMETER NEED TO ACCOMMODATE THE 259 COAX CONNECTOR JACKS. MOST INFO ON THIS MOD SUGGEST THAT DRILLING HOLES WILL CRACK THE BAKELITE. THE CONNECTORS JUST FIT ! ALSO WITH THE SANDING DRUM MACHINED THE SURROUNDING THICKNESS TO ACCEPT THE DEPTH OF THE ATTACHMENT NUT.\ THREADS THE ATTACHING NUT WAS SLIGHTLY GROUND ROUND TO FIT THE CASE
THE CAPS REPLACED
CONNECTORS AND JACKS VIA ALI EXPRESSSOMETIMES MYSTIFIED WITH THE MYRIAD OF REPLACEMENT CAPACITORS, HOPE THEY WORK
THE FINISHED METER LESS THE LEADS AND PROBES. AT FINAL ASSEMBLY IT WAS TESTED BY JUMPER WIRES, THE TUBE HEATER FILAMENTS GLOWED AND THE METER WAS ABLE TO BE CALIBRATED AS PER INSTRUCTIONS YEA! YES, WITH THE MALE CONNECTORS SCREWED ON THERE IS ENOUGH CLEARANCE FOR THE SELECTOR KNOBS TO BE ROTATED.
THE REAR, THE LINE CORD HAD BEEN SPLICED, NO PROBLEM FOR ME
LOOKING INTO THE PROCESS OF BUILDING MY OWN LEADS AND PROBES, HAVEN’T DECIDED YET AS THERE ARE AVAILABLE KITS ON EBAY SO I WON’T HAVE TO ORDER ALL THE PARTS I DON’T HAVE
Usually barometers and such may come attached to wooden boards, a ships wheel or just a round wooden disk. Some are contained in a brass case as the previous post.
This one was mounted inside a circular horn. Makes for an interesting display either on the wall or shelf.
Don’t see too many of these a-round.
As usual a bit of cleanup and a repair to the mechanism.
I returned the metal to a polish finish from the original which also had some red tape affixed to the circular pat of the horn tubing.
The dial is approximately 3 1/4 inches and the horn diameter is about 4 3/4 inches
unboxingdis assembly of the mechanismsome rust on the case to deal with, the mechanism is in good shaperear casethe horn mouthpiecethe red tape on the tubing.cleaningthe dial is in excellent shape after a cleanupone side of the pivot had to be reset, it was knocked from it’s intended position. No idea how it got like than other from a sharp knock An aneriod barometer, the silver circular chamber is sealed and pressure changes are linked to the to the pointer shaft through levers and finally a tiny chain the is wound around the indicator shaft. Cleaned and oiled all rotating and moving pieces. re assembly, the circular part of the tubing was plated metal.finished for now.Some touch up polishing and cleaning to be completed, fasteners for the bottom of the case needed
purchased from Goodwill online $43.88 , total with shipping and handling $63.00
parts needed 1 battery LR 1 , $2.85 total
arrival of the imstrumentsin fairly good shape, the second hand on the clock is bent, no battery mounted on a wooden base for hangingbent second handon the side some major pitting in areaspitting and corrosion present a full circle dog handle, nice touchremoval from the board rear of the clockdis assembly of the lensesall metal construction of the casesremoval of the case from the rear plateremoval of the clock from the caserear of the clock and the time setting knobbattery contacts in good condition, need LR-1 battery none in stockbarometer lensremoval of the front coverstarting the cleaningaligning the clock handscleaning , a combining of polishing compound and metal polish (Brasso)making progressbetter lookingreassemble the casesbright and shinyAn old pump motor acquired from a lot, with a chuck attached and an arbor set up with buffing wheel. Clamped to bench, powered polisher/buffer wheel remounted to base, didn’t refinish the boardelbow grease and polisher machine with the Brasso brought the finish back to high gloss. No sign of the pitting and corrosion done for now , battery orderedarrival of the batteryclipped into place
The clock is running !!! Keeps perfect time !
Not bad for just a cleanup, aligning of the clock hands and a battery. Was going to sell it, but it’s such a beautiful piece I still have it. Wempe instrumentation is a bit scarcer than a Shatz or a Chelsea. The clock ,though it is battery powered vs. a windup with chimes is still very good quality moment.
the “un boxing” !old style rotating numerals cloak, some wear and cracking on the clear face plate. the clock, the clock works but the motor emits a grinding sound. in a quiet room very audible.the back is clear plastic , apparently you set the time by putting your finger through he back and rotating the dials to the correct timeplastic style casesort of a burl wood plastic colorremoved the rear panelyou can see the rotating mechanism the numerals are in good shape , several kits are available as stickers to renew the look , these are highly viable and still have good colorcase interior with dial nightlight switchfront panel removedcasesome of the crazing of the plastic visiblewiring , switch bulb and socket, c7 bulb, checking wiring for splits and crackinggrommet dried out and cracked1 rpm motor, very noiseytimer motor with first cog, the second wheelmotor mounting bracketpulling the screw and axle from the hour wheeleach wheel (cog) has a spring detent that is slightly adjustable to aline the digitshour wheel and axleall of the wheels are removedcast mounted bracket removed from basewire nut connectionssecond wheel press fits to motorfasteners and hardwareready to be cleanedI checked the paint on the wheels of the numerals, it didn’t flake away before cleaning. On some old devices the paint will simply flack away if distrubedcomponents cleanedready for assemblyplastic polish appliedreassemble of the wheels, checking the sizes of the hardware axles and screwssome silicone grease applied, the paint was flaked on the spring detents, left as isinstalling the wheelswithout the detents in place, spin testinstallation of the detentsassembly of the time wheelsassemblymounting of the motoraligning of the digitscompleted projectrear view
While the project was finished, the motor was very noisy, I tried to lubricate the sealed motor but it ended with failure. Most likely will sell for parts as the motor is not readily available for replacement.
The bulb will be replaced with a C7 LED filament bulb.
The continuing series cataloging repairs, tear downs and random stuff.
Now on he bench is an Retro Oreck Air cleaner. some of you folks (sounds homey right ?) might remember these from it’s TV advertising. Some are probably already familiar with the Oreck name. I did a quick search on Oreck and those unfamiliar with it’s history may find it interesting reading more than the scope of this posting.
Another item is the fact of air purification. You can easily find yourself in a whirlwind of information on air purifiers and filters, air quality and health condition, all beyond the scope of this blog. I as more often than not acquire items on their merit of design and components rather than the best rated and reviewed results, even though the device is usually discontinued or no longer available. So on with the show…
At the time when these were offered for sale, comparatively speaking they were expensive (to my demographic). It’s advantage is that the air cleaner never required filters , so to speak. The electrostatic filter is the main filter element, basically sheets of metal separated and each other layer charged with a high voltage to trap particles in the air. This was later referred to as the “truman cell” filter and I’m stumped as to the reference of this marketing terminology. I’ve had some experience with electrostatic commercial units, basically a larger implementation of the truman cell. It also harks back to the day when it was legal to consume tobacco products at your pleasure and many restaurants , bars and lounges used a “smoker eater” to keep the air cleaner.
All components of the filter are removable and washable. It can be equipped with a charcoal filter, still available. The model purchased was the AIr 8 , they may be (as more research is needed) first generation of the Oreck air purifier and came in a few colors including the wood grain variety. One striking feature is it’s layout, unlike many other home air purifiers, is that it’s designed to a rather large footprint type device that would be on a tabletop, not like a floor model. The retro wood grain looks of this model disguises it to be a table top console device that would look good in a living room setting. It probably could be placed near an ashtray, cigar humidor, or a stand holding a collection of pipes (tobacco that is) but most of that has disappeared from our lives.
The fan design is similar to a elongated squirrel cage blower, cylindrical with axial vanes that allows a low profile. Since there is no input airflow to the center of the rotating vanes, like many squirrel cage blowers, it moves the air, by the design of the case, by just the outer edge of the vanes while rotating. Air flows from the rear of the filter assembly around the edge of the vanes and exiting up through the top of the device. Adjustable vanes allow some limited direction of the exiting air flow. The design also requires that airspace is clear over the top of the unit.
As with other Oreck devices manufactured in it’s time, it’s expensive price is justified in it’s design. Ironically to me is that some reviews (some misleading) classed this as a device needing frequent service as that the time Oreck had it’s chain of retail stores and repair centers. In my opinion the device is well built as we will see. some of the shortcomings of reviewers of the time placed it as a mediocre filter system, but again it doesn’t matter to me.
More technically the 120 volt powered device has a low voltage transformer feeding the high voltage supply for the electrostatic filter, The speed control slide switch selects the motor windings for 3 different speeds, a basic but effective system other than an electronic speed control system. A specialized slide switch of both two and three pole combination and wired to switch the fan windings, while supplying the power to the low voltage transformer. A separate high voltage supply, 120 vac in and high voltage DC out is for the ionizer, another controversial system of air rejuvenation, which operates by a simple switch. The high voltage output terminates in a needle located close to the fan blades to provide the ions to the air stream. The final switch is actually a latch to access the fragrance cartridge holder which springs open allowing insertion of the fragrance cartridge I think still available. I utilized some soldering iron foam cleaning pads and use scented essences as necessary. Another small circuit board on the front panel rear is the LED indicator assembly to indicated power, filter condition and power applied to the ionizer.
All of the components are easily removable and as with other older devices a good number of fasteners are used versus plastic clips of newer devices. The entire unit can be disassembled and cleaned, even the louver assembly is made so it can be taken apart, there are no plastic “welds” in the device. The case is of heavy thick plastic. Mine was missing the rubber feet, some chipped areas on the feet projections. The unit was also engineered for wall mounting but I can not find any reference to a wall mounting bracket offered through research. This device could be mounted on the ceiling if you were so inclined to fashion a bracket or mounting plate for it.
Noise wise the unit is very quiet on medium speed and practically silent on the low speed. Occasionally there is a slight sound from the bearings barely perceptible on the low speed. Noise form these devices is very subjective to the user.
Lets take a look…
unboxing… I didn’t know this would be as popular as it has become The “before” picture. Unit powered up but the fan blades were jammed for some reason.first glance, top removed, motor mount cracked The right side left side bearing assembly plate, easily removablea bit of dust and dirt expected when buying on the used low price market. Some buyers actually like to bring the item back to original condition rather than buy a totally refurbished item,. Plus you get the best part… to take it apart and see the design ! It’s a learning experience !The fan motor mount may have gotten jostled around during shipping as the seller said it worked. ground wire from the ionizer just sitting in there ?cracked motor mount, was eventually glued back to normal. slide switches and LED display board, the control panel also slides out from the case.another view of the control panel pulled form the case broken motor mountThe stud for the ionizer chipped, later epoxiedrepair of the motor mountfan motor removed (right) the brass bushing pressed on the motor shaft provides coupling to the fan blade assemblynot a through cleaning yet reassembled for testing, fan now rotating.case together, run testingdays later full disassembly for cleaning appears that the high voltage ionizer supply does not output the high voltage. The high voltage for the electrostatic filter is good. As stated practically all of the components can be broken down for cleaning.three separate windings for this motor, would be hard to find a replacement 120 vacball bearingsmates to the grommet on the fan blade enddetents for positive switch positionThe “after” picture. ionizer power supply replacement on order. All bearings were cleaned and greased also.order from Ali Express, a replacement, not the exact replacement for the high voltage power supplyThis one terminates in a carbon brush end instead of a needle. Not sure of the voltage of the original one , this one definitely more compact. No pictures of the repair just connected to the 120 vac and ran the output to the original bracket that held the needle termination. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001652041536.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.357b4c4dKRyOVm
After almost a month of running practically full time, the fan blade assembly was starting to slip and squeak on the bushing at the motor drive. Previous I used a piece of heat shrink on the outer section of the shaft. That did not last Then tried a vacuum cap to bush up the diameter for a tighter fit. Nope still a no go.Finally I repeated the heat shrink application , this time covering the entire shaft with the heat shrink even over the bushing then applying heat. The ridge on the bushing fits into the grommet with the grommet completely covering the bushingseen here the grommet fully pressed onto the shaft covering the bushingon duty today
I do like the design and operation of the Oreck. If needed it could be modified for instance, for smoke extraction when soldering Or if you needed a high voltage supply or some type of fan for moving air. It can be operated on it’s side Hasn’t collected much dust yet , the filter light has not come on. there is some fine dust on the electrostatic plates On occasion you do here the snap of the high voltage could be a large dust particle etc. Does it make a difference on the quality of the air in the room ? I can’t really say and by delving more into the subject of air quality ………………
Closing out the 2019 year 2020 looks to be a nice even number to either put your new project on the map so to speak, or end out a project to focus on your core abilities
Whats on the Blue mat? (the soldering pad/mat on the workbench)
project de cluttererzation continues
projects over the years buried in the archive, repair, refurbish, and sale or donate or dispose
testing old equipment that was stored returning to proper operation for use or sell parts if not repairable
vintage repairs
purchasing vintage or newer equipment for repair, education, re-calibrate,and/or modification and sale,
Repair selected equipment purchased for auction sites listed as is broken etc or parts lots. (tube valve) electronics, electro mechanical record turntables etc.
Learn new repair and troubleshooting technics, the internet is a rich source of information through blogs , videos, user groups for education re enforcement
New devices
Small inexpensive devices that can be integrated to projects, usually from the China/Asian region.
Just a post about current electronics , hacks etc. while everything else is going on.
Computer power supply project.
Since computer power supplies are plentiful, utilized an old video tape player case to enclose a power supply, digital readout meters serve as a power indicators. 12 volt, 5 volt and 3.3 volts. On /off switch mounted to case. The on/off switch is connected to a soft control 2 wires on the ATX power supply, not the mains voltage input. Opening in top for fan exhaust.
Most projects are a work in progress. Power supply is short proof , the on/off switch will reset power. Should add some banana jacks later, for now alligator clips to the appropriate connectors and USB jack for 5 volt appliances. When necessary, a voltage/amperage digital gauge is used in line to monitor current as this is a several 100 watt supply that will provide quite a bit of amperage at the outputs. Now a stable bench top power supply is available when needed.
Some single color, not RGB for now, low-cost modules to control low voltage LEDs either cob, strings or other low voltage lighting that can benefit from dimming, strobing, or speed adjusting dimming with or without remote control. Installed in-line to LEDs. Under cabinet strip lighting, re-wiring of lamps to a low voltage LED illumination are some of the uses. Could they be used for other purposes other than lighting?
In line push button controller on LED tape lighting, no on/off switch, so one will have to be installed if necessary. Note: found out later that centre button is On /Off switch long press for off , short press for on stepped dimming when on.
The remote control module has more control with on/off and of course more convient to use (as long as the remote doesn’t get lost!).
One concept, edge lighting a prototype stained glass art project. LED tape sandwiched in the channel. Remote lighting control. Inexpensive 120vac to 12 volt modules (wall worts) are used for the low voltage supply.
Cob LEDs project
Analysis, fragile, not flexible but very bright for the size.
Know as filament LEDS
Inexpensive and could be used for a variety of lighting projects.
These are higher voltage models.
A round 1 watt Cob LED, now my desk light, in comparison to a strip led tape. Both are 12 VDC. The LEDs on the cob are extremely tiny.
The USB chargers that come with 1s batteries either charge slow since they are limited to a USB amperage or quit working. Small 3s battery balance charger boards (other varieties available) fed from 12 volts wired with JST connectors to provide multiple battery charging. An education of the wiring of a balanced charging plug (multiple connector) LiPo batteries. With the use of small adjustable voltage regulation boards, these batteries are excellent for portable battery-powered projects instead of non charging alkaline cells. One note of caution, this technology can provide amps of low voltage power from a small package, an accidental short can easily melt wires and weld contacts together. There is usually no fusing within the battery. As you go up the ladder to higher capacities batteries, a LiPo safe (container) should be considered. The larger batteries can pump out amps for high current applications and should be handled carefully. With some high capacity drones and radio control projects a small fire extinguisher may be cheap insurance.
The ALPHA1 250 Class Drone Construction.
Not to be satisfied with assembling a kit as usual, the 250 ZMR project continues. Wiring can quickly evolve to a mess. The flight controller , receiver and associated Electronic Speed Controllers are miniature computers. After mounting these components, there is little room for wiring, also utilizing PWM receiver controls results in a rats nests of wires. (this may be changed to single wire receiver). The supplied plug-in connectors were removed and ESC control lines were hardwired to the flight controller. The main DC power to the ESCs and battery connector wires also hardwired with both a single 2S or parallel 2 in series 2S connectors (for 4S power) available. The DC main and possible battery location will be below the main deck along with the ESCs. Some drone designs utilize a 4 in one ECS, mine of course are separate units. A variety of aluminium spacers were ordered to attach the deck plate(s) that will be used for a lower profile.
one iteration another design, lower top plate.
Associated wiring of the flight controller outputs to below main deck ESCs, removal of the supplied right angle header on flight controller and the wires hard soldered from below cleaned up some clutter. Next will be the addition and calibration of the receiver. Considering still using the solid hull sides (cut horizontal) enclosing the electronics on decks and /or more horizontal chassis plates (chopped and channeled). Antenna mounts ordered for receiver. USB extension cord used for programming after build.
Mains wiring to the motors is enclosed in carbon fiber conduit which further complicated the wiring scheme. The wiring for the receiver inputs is yet to be added.
Dronin Flight Control is currently loaded on board, All other flight control software still did not work on a MAC laptop so a Windows desktop system is used for calibration. May be a bad cable USB etc to the MAC but time-consuming pointless troubleshooting at this point. Would be nice to a have laptop programming available for portability.
Wiring of the ESCs was time-consuming as the factory wiring was removed and soldered to custom length and some was rewired for proper motor rotation. Some jitter on the ESC motor testing but cleaning up and soldering of the ESCs and calibration cured the problems.
Don't ever change yourself to impress someone, cause they should be impressed that you don't change to please others -- When you are going through something hard and wonder where God is, always remember that the teacher is always quiet during a test --- Unknown
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